Hours: Lunch: Tuesday-Friday; Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Small and homey Bridgeport Italian.
This neighborhood spot within shouting distance of Sox Park serves some interesting renditions of old standards. Minestrone was pumped up with bacon and sausage, and mushroom soup was flavored with fennel. Baked clams had good garlicky flavor under all that breading; tasty grilled octopus was fresh and served on mesclun. Gnocchi were some of the finest I've had in memory: extraordinarily light, not a bit gluey, and served in a marinara that sparkled with freshly snipped basil. Penne, softly turned in a sauce of spicy, mustardy pesto with capers and chunks of prosciutto, was almost as hard to pull away from. Parmesan-latticed slices of lightly herbed veal were sprinkled with the ubiquitous fresh basil and laid over a moist pillow of rapini. The herb-roasted pork chop, served with velvety roasted potatoes, was also nicely done if slightly dry--that's the problem with an inch-and-a-half-thick slab of meat. On the dessert menu there's tiramisu along with a number of ice creams, though after a meal this rich not many would be in a position to indulge.
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