Hours: Lunch, Dinner: seven days
Family-friendly restaurant known for its Chicago-style ribs.
Gale Street Inn, whose near half a century of success owes in large part to its reputation for ribs, wouldnt survive 40 days let alone 40 years in a city that understood barbecue. Yet mobs of north-siders regularly hunch over their plates here, slurping sloppy oversauced mush from their bones as if fearing some bigger, stronger animal happening by and snatching them away. There oughtta be a law against calling boiled, steamed, or roasted meat barbecue, but thats the vaunted fall-off-the-bone Chicago style-the official rib of the toothless. Evidence of GSIs crimes against pork is in the total absence of smoke or any flavor beneath the sauce and in the piles of bones so cleanly stripped of meat they look like theyve been bleached in the desert. Its a shame, because in many other respects Gale Street is a wonderful family-style place, old school in the best ways, starting with a first-rate bar attended by uniformed mixologists who know exactly what theyre doing. Professional waiters, not actors, make with the surf and turf, prepared exactly like you and grandpa would expect. Jefferson Parks never exactly been a place to seek out the unpredictable or creative, but Gale Street serves as a scene all its own, and on Sundays theres a magician for the youngsters.
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