Hours: Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday
Closed Sunday, Monday
Curtis Duffy's acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, one of the city's two with three Michelin stars (Alinea is the other), closed in December 2017 after an ownership dispute.
At Grace—the highly anticipated new restaurant from former Avenues chef Curtis Duffy—you're ushered into a dimly lit dining room where a glass window takes up nearly an entire wall. Behind it is a spotless, brightly lit kitchen crowded with busy cooks, among whom stalks Duffy in the starring role. Each of his two nine-course menus—one vegetable focused, the other a bit meatier—costs $185, which after wine, tax, and tip positions Grace as the second-most expensive restaurant in the city. Duffy manages to coax out flavors of knee-weakening intensity on both, but I found myself enjoying more of them on the veggie-dominant "flora" menu. There are orange and purple carrots prepared in several ways—roasted, dehydrated, liquefied—with pureed and braised pistachios and creamy mascarpone. There's a circular arrangement of deep-fried sunchoke nuggets, onion chips, nutty roasted green wheat, and "braised" mustard seeds (aka "mustard"). There are jellylike coconut noodles strewn across a landscape of torn cake nuggets, basil gelato, and pickled huckleberries in a dessert that brought back one of the most memorable things I ever ate at Avenues. The meatier "fauna" too has its unforgettable dishes. A salad of trout roe, tuna, and pomelo sections in a cylinder of ginger-flavored ice is a sweet, sour, and briny convergence. Silky-tender bits of veal cheek are adorned by a scattering of compressed green grape coins and nutty oatmeal risotto, garnished with a single tempura anchovy and accented by a puddle of liquefied anchovy. Both menus come with specific bread pairings and memorable mignardises, though oddly the wine pairings are the same. But not every dish knocks it out of the park, which is especially regrettable when the check comes. Read the full review >>
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