Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday; dinner: seven days
Saturday & Sunday brunch
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
CLOSED. Restaurant specializing in a l'entrecote-style meal of grass-fed steak with frites and salad.
Grass Fed takes inspiration from the familially affiliated French restaurants known as L'Entrecôte, all of which serve a single prix fixe meal of steak frites with a salad. Here the hook is that the beef is grass-fed sirloin from a Wisconsin collective. The trick is that it's hard to cook: its paucity of fat means you can't fire it at high temperatures without ruining it. The kitchen crew at Grass Fed gets around this by cooking the ten-ounce strip loins sous vide, not a bad idea in theory. The problem comes in when you want to impart that irresistible char you get from a properly grilled steak—you just can't do it. Instead you have boiled steak, finished on an open flame, with grill marks that look as though they were drawn on by a Sharpie. Add to that a dark green tarragon sauce that disguises what turns out be a pretty unmemorable flavor, and a pile of thin, bone-dry frites, and you have a pretty weak $25 steak. On the other hand, fish or chicken are now options too, and the salad that comes with them all is wonderful, large leafy greens with a big plank of house-made foccacia-esque toast. The inexpensive and generous a la carte sides are pretty good too, and almost all veggie. To drink there are a half-dozen unnamed wines, a half-dozen beers, and a trio of force-carbonated and house-bottled cocktails—the watermelon-jalapeño-tequila sandia caliente is a surprisingly adult beverage, well balanced between the sweet and boozy. The extensive weekend brunch menu almost makes you wish these folks didn't limit themselves to a tragically flawed entree the rest of the time.
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