Hours: Lunch: Saturday-Sunday; dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Open late: Tuesday-Saturday till 1
Barbecue venture from Brendan Sodikoff (Bavette's, Au Cheval, Maude's, Gilt Bar).
Brendan Sodikoff’s cafeteria-style barbecue joint is summertime incarnate, from the rows of outdoor seating to the smells. The meats are portioned and weighed by a guy with a large knife, who serves them by the half pound. In the eternal battle between beef versus pork ribs, Green Street’s pork ribs come out on top. The rub sticks to your fingers like a savory decal, and they’re heavy with meat and pink with smoke beneath the bark. The brisket is lusciously fatty. The menu falters when it strays from straight-up smoked animal parts. A Frito pie with brisket chili will make you wonder why you’re wasting stomach space. The selection of sides is straight from a family picnic: coleslaw with an herby, bright pop of cilantro; macaroni salad with a distinct citrus tang; and broccoli salad studded with sunflower seeds and packed with dill. Standouts on the cocktail menu are a sweet tea with bourbon and the Chartreuse Mule, a take on a Moscow Mule with gin. Bottled and canned beers are stored in antique porcelain sinks filled with ice. The old-timey charm is carefully cultivated, but it doesn’t feel insipid. Read the full review >>
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