Hours: Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
BYO Asian fusion restaurant serving an affordable five-course tasting menu.
Han 202, the unusual Bridgeport Asian fusion restaurant, offers a prix fixe dinner priced at $35 for five expertly turned-out courses, one of the best deals in town. Like any self-respecting chef, Guan Chen winces at the term fusion. But his judgment is too sound and his touch too deft for any of the excesses that dated label conjures. Julienned green apple is dressed with extra-virgin olive oil, pine nuts, and two of the most aggressive ingredients you can think of, capers and truffle oil, applied with such restraint that its difficult to imagine them not working. For his beef and lemongrass salad Chen simply builds on the apple salad, adding the herb and tender glazed chunks of beef; its completely different from the base but no less memorable. And a bowl of romaine laced with wakame seaweed is a harmonious preparation—and head-slappingly simple. To say Chen makes things look easy, though, would ignore his facility with sea creatures, like a special of baby scallops, luscious, perfectly cooked, and served in spicy miso broth, or the just-over-wobbly scallops and shrimp he pairs with firm vegetables in a red seafood curry. Fourth courses move from sea to land with dishes like spicy lamb chops in bonito-plum sauce with sprigs of thyme and Chens takes on Chinese-American classics like General Tsos chicken and orange beef. House-made desserts, including ice creams, serve as a proper punctuation mark.
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