Hours: Lunch: Friday-Saturday; dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
The former Pizza D.O.C., now featuring some German specialties in addition to Neopolitan-style pizza and other Italian dishes.
In 1999 the late Cesar D'Ortenzi, owner of Lincoln Square's La Bocca Della Verita, opened Pizza D.O.C., importing a massive wood-burning brick oven from Italy and using it to blast out beautiful charred and blistered thin-crust pies the likes of which the city had never seen. Even after D'Ortenzi died and sisters Diana and Carol Himmel bought in five years ago, the place kept quietly on, perfuming the 2200 block of Lawrence with the gentle whiff of wood smoke. But gradually the sisters began sneaking in specials that reflected their—and the neighborhood's—German heritage. Now they've put their name above the door and those German dishes on the menu permanently. These include veal and chicken schnitzel, roast duckling, Bavarian pork shank (just on the weekend), and an unlovely looking thing called champignon rahm schnitzel. No, this isn't named for the mayor; rahm means "cream" (though I might take to referring to His Honor as Mayor Schnitzel). The dish is four butter-seared pork tenderloin medallions slathered in a thick mushroom cream sauce and served with a tangle of long spaetzle and some sweet red cabbage on the side. I am a little disappointed that Himmel's German offerings are so relatively few. No sauerbraten? No hackepeter? The pizza, however, is still very good, and it is the forefather of the Chicago Neapolitan pizza revolution: the right thing to do is respect your elders.
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