Hours: Lunch: Tuesday-Friday; dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
CLOSED. New restaurant in the former Jacky's on Prairie featuring eclectic, cosmopolitan cuisine from chef Jonadab Silva.
This Latin-by-way-of-the-North Shore restaurant just off Evanston's Central Street takes its name from the Spanish word for the letter J, a tribute to the venerable Jacky's Bistro, where executive chef Jonadab Silva worked before starting this enterprise. I most enjoyed the dishes that were buttery and rustic, like the potato gnocchi with mushrooms, cauliflower, and mozzarella that tasted like a light and healthy poutine or the moist scallops nestled into a fresh, creamy melange of spaetzle, mushrooms, and caviar. On the other hand, the uninspiring lamb (since been struck from the menu) didn't help the couscous and red peppers pairing, or vice versa. The room is more pretentious than the food demands, and the very nice waitstaff is always around when you don't need them. But high marks go to pastry chef Erin Silva Winston, whose cherry tart was delicious in its simplicity, like a lightly sweetened cornbread someone's mama used to make.
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