Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Thai staples from Thailand native Korakot Vongsatit and her American-born son-in-law Atichat Srisawangpan.
Chef Korakot Vongsatit makes curry pastes from scratch each morning. That's rather extraordinary for your average mom-and-pop Thai restaurant. Nevertheless, In-on Thai quietly assumed an unheralded position among the dozens and dozens of unremarkable Thai restaurants around town. Nearly every item on the menu is given a generic English name, and even common dishes are left untranslated. It's the antithesis of an untranslated secret menu, obscure for its very over-reliance on the English language. You'll find many of the common American Thai standards from tom yam to pad thai to som tam to pad see-ew. There are some uncommon dishes here and there, however, like the aforementioned seafood curry, a Thai-style tuna salad, a spicy ground pork and fish ball noodle soup, a crispy chicken curry with pickled vegetables. My eye was caught by the third dish on the menu "grill pork with eggplant salad" a cold arrangement of lightly charred but cold pork and very thinly sliced green eggplant. Sweet and fiery, it seems like a simple dish, but it is relatively uncommon due to the unpredictable quality of Thai eggplants in the U.S., which for this dish should be very young and fresh, with seeds that haven't fully developed. The basic green curry with beef was lovely, with two kinds of eggplant and a finishing flourish of coconut milk on top, but it didn't strike me as particularly unique in terms of flavor or aroma. A curry paste made from scratch in the U.S. is never going to approach one made in Thailand simply because of the inferiority of available ingredients. Despite that, you have to admire the effort and commitment at In-On Thai, which deserves a bit more attention.
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