Hours: Breakfast, lunch: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday; dinner: seven days
New York-style pizza by the pie or slice, plus coffee and beignets.
Good, cheap New York-style pizza distinguishes this Lincoln Square counter-service joint, and so does the other component of its culinary mission: New Orleans-style beignets. If that sounds like a recipe for heartburn, it's not—nothing here is overly greasy, and you can come away feeling like pizza and beignets are a perfectly reasonable combination. (I suppose owner Jimmy Kang should be lauded for stopping short of what plenty of restaurateurs in our fat-worshipping era wouldn't think twice about: putting beignets on the pizza itself.) Whole pies are available, but you can get standards by the slice—they're laid out on the counter and heated to order. The crust is textbook—crisp, chewy, and a little charred on the bottom—and easily folds over onto itself, after the proper fashion. Pepperoni and cheese pizzas were both good, and the house white pizza, with pesto and ricotta, was lovely. Skip the salad, which suffers from prepreparation—we hardly touched it. That left us room for the fantastic beignets, which arrived hot under heaps of powdered sugar. The pastries themselves, which come three to an order, aren't too sweet; their taut outer skin yields to a steamy, yeasty interior. Other items look promising, too: there's a menu of espresso drinks, plus homemade cannoli, chicken wings, and stromboli.
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