Hours: Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Ambitious sushi restaurant from B.K. Park, formerly of Arami; omakase seating is also available.
A return to the sushi game for former Arami chef B.K. Park, Juno aspires to be, and may well one day become, the preeminent sushi restaurant in Chicago. The rice used for the maki and nigiri is Tamaki Gold, premium California short-grain that's probably the finest available in the United States. And the sea creatures themselves are in many cases outstanding, something shockingly apparent with a simple uni nigiri. The long black sushi bar in the rear dining room, manned by four chefs including Park, is capable of producing some very pretty and desirable sashimi arrangements. The same goes for the specialty maki, and Park shows restraint in his rolls relative to most of his mayo-and-cream-cheese-squirting contemporaries. But despite the fine presentation, these can arrive sloppily rolled or unevenly cut, indicating the chefs sometimes aren't taking their time. The kitchen, too, seems overwhelmed, ill-advisedly serving ramen in addition to appetizers and a few higher-ticket entrees; the bowls, stocked with duck confit or pork belly, are based on a thin, bodyless pork broth and filled with floury, undercooked noodles. Juno isn't cheap, and it isn't serving cheaply made sushi. But it isn't yet to the point where it's extraordinarily special either. Read the full review >>
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