L. Woods Tap and Pine Lodge | Lincolnwood | American, Barbecue/Ribs, Bar/Lounge | Restaurant

L. Woods Tap and Pine Lodge Menu

Hours: Lunch: Monday-Saturday; Dinner: seven days

Price: $$

Casual Lettuce Entertain You barbecue place.

Restaurant Details

L. Wood's Tap is a plausible and pleasant simulation of a Wisconsin lakeside lodge, designed to transport families to the rustic fish fries of their summer camp days on Lake Paw Paw. It's actually a fun place to eat once you get past the sense of being manipulated by a theme-park-experienced design consultant. The dining rooms have unfinished pine walls, antlers hang on the light fixtures, and artificially aged black-and-white photos show smiling people alongside groups of hardy men hauling in tons of lake trout. The menu covers the range of 50s-era supper-club favorites, with a few strategic updates for the 21st century: few places of that time served calamari (which, by the way, is good here--crispy and served with a very potent horseradish sauce). Grilled planked salmon arrives under a blanket of BBQ sauce on a cedar shingle surrounded by buttery mashed potatoes and corn niblets. I suspect that other barbecue entrees are cooked at some central rib-processing plant, then finished on-site at Wildfire or L. Woods or whichever other Lettuce restaurant needs smoked meat. Dry-rub baby back ribs were undersalted and overbaked; sauced baby backs were a tad tastier but still not really barbeque: a little hammy, with an unpleasant texture and no crisp char. On the bright side, portions are massive. The waiters are pros, upselling casually and convincingly. Reservations are recommended; the nostalgic lodge formula seems to strike a chord with many Lincolnwooders, and the place is packed most nights.

Seth Zurer

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Price: $$

Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa, Other