Hours: Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
Saturday & Sunday brunch
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Upscale Mexican from the couple behind Los Nopales.
Los Nopales, Adam and Mirella Moreno's little Lincoln Square storefront, has moved up in the world (and in price) in recent years, going so far as to receive a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Now the couple has expanded into a more-spacious sister location in Edgewater, keeping much of the old menu but adding to the mix some house specialties, plus beer, wine, and craft cocktails. It would be nice to see more Mexican places offer fresh green salads like the one here featuring verdolagas, purslane, served with julienne radishes and tomatoes, dabs of goat cheese, and, for crunch, tortilla strips, sliced vermicelli thin. One of the new entrees, costillas, baby back ribs in an ancho chile sauce, disappointed us with their mushy, fall-off-the-bone texture, but that's a matter of taste, of course—some people like denture-friendly ribs—and smoky grilled pineapple, jicama, and nopales helped to compensate. In fact, next time I might go for the grilled veggie platter, one of just a couple meatless options on a largely carnicentric roster featuring filet mignon, a lamb shank, and three versions of skirt steak. In addition, there are sopes, a variety of mariscos, standards like fajitas and enchiladas, and a notable pollo en mole, made from a family recipe and served on the bone over a tamal nejo—if only the tortillas were handmade. About those craft cocktails: there are specialty margaritas and fancy concoctions such as the Mayahuel, chamomile-infused tequila with Lillet Blanc and Fruitlab organic orange liqueur, but charmingly, these come in kitschy goblets with a bright blue cactus stem.
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