Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Vietnamese, with a plethora of rarer and more interesting offerings and a killer chicken-noodle version of pho.
Scattered across the menu of standard Vietnamese offerings is a plethora of rare offerings—goat hot pot, stir-fried snails with lemongrass, even bear meat and alligator (or "alagader")—but most of the customers come to this Lincoln Square spot for one thing—the chicken noodle soup pho ga, the less-celebrated fowl-based cousin of the familiar aromatic beef soups bulked up with rice noodles and various bovine bits. A halal butcher supplies the chicken, and the unusual taste and texture of the meat is undeniably a hit in the Vietnamese community. It's rare that you won't see a bowl of this marvelous soup on every table—and likewise, the goi ga, a towering salad of both bone-in and shredded chicken, chopped cabbage, and raw onion, all topped with a sprinkling of crushed peanuts and a crown of livers and gizzards. Innards often turn up in the pho ga too, as well as on platters of steamed chicken with ginger, which may also feature a few cooked immature or embryonic eggs. The beef-based pho is also good—particularly the oxtail pho, as intensely beefy as the pho ga is chickeny. There's a stir-fry of beef and mustard greens with a spot-on balance of sweet, sour, and meaty flavors. A rabbit stir-fry features ribbony tofu skins in a savory, almost gravylike sauce. The familiar ca kho to, catfish cooked in a clay pot, is distinctive too—more peppery and less sweet than other versions—and a salad of rare beef matches the goi ca in composition and generosity, the pink shreds of meat as tender as the signature chicken is chewy. Read the full review >>
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