Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Bridgeport restaurant specializing in Chinese food from Dongbei, the northeasternmost part of the country.
There's much to explore on Northern City's menu, including many specialties from Dongbei, the northeasternmost part of China: wheat pancakes, stir-fried noodles made from them, da la pi (cold mung bean noodles with vegetables), "stupid" chicken (stewed bird served in a star-anise-scented broth with wiggly mushrooms and slippery tendrils of mung bean vermicelli). But one dish really stood out for me as emblematic of the rib-sticking, warming winter food the region is known for: baby potatoes with soy sauce. That was number 207 on the cold appetizer section of the menu, though what arrived was not cold but steaming-hot, a mountain of new potatoes tossed with long, spicy, green chiles (and a few dried red ones) and bits of shredded brisketlike beef. The potatoes were soft and sweet and had absorbed the tasty soy-based sauce, but the dish also had a pleasant burn. At $7.95 this generous plate is the embodiment of meat and potatoes, and the only thing that will prevent me from ordering it on future visits is my aim to go deep on this huge menu, which lists such enticing mysteries as varied as "frog with double mushroom," "stir fried jellyfish with pork," and "spicy small frostfish."
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