Hours: Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday
Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
North Center Cantonese throwback with an orange-and-silver art deco facade.
This Cantonese throwback with a striking art deco facade is straight out of a smoky Chris Ware cartoon. Without a trace of irony, the place embraces every Chinese restaurant cliche: Chinese zodiac placemats (I'm a monkey), tea for sale in a glass case under the register, and a pair of shellacked landscape murals on opposing walls. Given that you must ask for chopsticks and customers still order their fried rice "extra dark," I wasn't expecting much from the kitchen. But execution is solid here. Hot-and-sour soup was chock-full of tofu, bamboo shoots, black fungus, and egg. Bite into the stupendous egg rolls and the next table will hear the crunch. Main dishes serve two and hover reasonably around $8. I would put Orange Gardens beef chow fun up against the best in Chicago or NYC's Chinatown. The beef is fork-tender (remember, no chopsticks) and the dish has real wok hay (literally, the breath of a wok).
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