Hours: Lunch, dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday
The return of a Vietnamese favorite.
After its first incarnation as a casual storefront cafe in Uptown, Pasteur rose from the ashes of a fire and moved to new quarters in Edgewater, where it served authentic but refined Vietnamese food in a gorgeous setting that summoned the dissipated tropical elegance of colonial Indochina. That closed in 2007, but now chef Dan Nguyen and his ex-wife, Kim, are back. His appetizer of thickly sliced Japanese eggplant topped with powdered dry shrimp and soured by lime is a ballsy, powerfully meaty, satisfying plate, and while some of his stuff seems scarcely considered—including the signature bo luc lac (aka "shaking beef"), diminished by two limp tomato slices—a lot of it is pretty good. For one, salads, like a formation of cold grilled beef slices over red pepper, carrot, and onion and dusted with toasted rice powder, or a springy, sweet squid toss-up blazed with chiled lime acidity. A selection of noodle soups, including a respectably beefy pho and the tamarind-boosted can chua tom, aren't the bottomless tureens of Argyle Street, but remain a fresh and fragrant value. I'm happy to see Pasteur back—it's a worthwhile place to visit, especially if you feel like inserting yourself in a Graham Greene novel. Read the full review >>
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