Paulie Gee's Logan Square | Logan Square | Pizza | Restaurant

Paulie Gee's Logan Square Menu Image

Hours: Dinner: Sunday-Monday, Wednesday-Saturday
Closed Tuesday
Open late: Monday-Saturday till 11

Price: $

Chicago location of the Brooklyn pizza joint serving wood-grilled Neopolitan-style pies including several house specialties; vegan pizzas are also available. For dessert there's Jeni's ice cream.

Restaurant Details

I love the buttery, cheesy, garlicky, caramelized crunch of Detroit-based chain Jet's Pizza, so I was thrilled, to an extent, by the special Detroit-style pizza at Paulie Gee's, the Chicago outpost of the Brooklyn pizzeria that normally traffics in unusually topped Neapolitan-style pies. The "Logan Square," as it's called, is a major departure from that style, a rectangular six-square pie with a relatively buoyant interior but a densely cheesy, chewy caramelized crust. Owner Derrick Tung says he modeled it on the original Motor City version served at the 70-year-old Buddy's, a pie he was inspired to duplicate in his home oven after a visit to Detroit years ago. The space Tung leased for Paulie Gee's came with a convection oven, so he and his crew began playing with it—"with disastrous results at first," he says—but eventually fine-tuned it to its current form. The space Tung leased for it came with a convection oven, so he and his crew began playing with it. They use a multiflour formulation for the dough, says Tung, and allow it to proof in a cold ferment stage until ready to use. Then they set the dough in a Detroit-style pan, add cheese (white cheddar right now), and then allow it to rise at room temperature for a while—typically around four hours—before an initial bake. After that, the pies are prepared to order. And then it gets weird: they apply a bright, acidic, chunky, and cold tomato sauce on top of the hot pizza. Tung says that when they were testing dozens of pies they got lazy and would lay down cold sauce out of expediency, and eventually the crew learned to like the contrast in temperatures. A tablemate said that the cold sauce on the hot pizza really makes the flavor "pop," but having eaten it without warning I thought it was disturbing—these wildly different surface temperatures seem like a violation of natural law. Still, the Logan Square is a taste of Elysium. Unfortunately, for now, at least, Paulie G's only makes 30 per night on Sundays, Mondays, and Wednesdays.

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , ,

Price: $

Payment Type: Cards accepted

Tags

Add a review

Rating

Select a star to rate.