Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight
This upscale chain with two suburban locations offers three squares, all made with sustainable ingredients. There's also a range of coffee drinks, teas, microbrewed kombucha, and smoothies.
Reversing the usual trend of starting in the city and expanding to the suburbs, Prasino has chosen to move inward instead, locating its newest outpost in Wicker Park. The menu is nearly identical to the ones at the original Saint Charles and La Grange restaurants, with the addition of a half-dozen maki rolls; the restaurant’s emphasis on sustainability has also migrated to the city, where buzzwords like "seasonal," "local," and "green" are already de rigueur for many restaurants. (Though this is the first time I’ve seen a restaurant’s website describe its food as "clean." I usually assume that’s a given.) The main dining room is large, modern, and airy, all dark wood and glass, though it could use a few sound-absorbing panels: noise levels were high enough to make conversation difficult. What we tried from the extensive menu—antibiotic- and hormone-free, sustainable, environmentally friendly, etc—was hit-or-miss. Grilled fish tacos were excellent, with nicely fried fish, tangy cabbage slaw, avocado, and poblano cream. Garlic wedge potatoes with truffle aioli, on the other hand, were soggy and bland. Our entrees of portobello mushroom ravioli (perfectly pleasant) and braised short ribs with cauliflower-cheddar gratin were both tasty, but together they were so rich that it was hard to eat more than a few bites, especially of the salty, ultracheesy gratin. Perhaps noting that we hadn't finished either of our entrees, the waiter didn't offer a dessert menu, but did bring us a complimentary pumpkin bread pudding; it was good but we were too full to make a dent in it.
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