Hours: Lunch, Dinner: seven days
Lakeview restaurant serving both northern and southern Indian cuisine, including several seafood specialties; they also deliver.
All-you-can eat Indian lunchtime buffets arent a good way to evaluate a kitchens abilities, but on my first visit to Radhuni the genial but distracted host discouraged me from ordering any higher-ticket menu items. Everything on menu, we have over there, he advised me, indicating a selection of eight items dwarfed by the menu's extensive list of northern Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi offerings. There was nothing you havent seen before, and--feh--the chana masala was too salty, matter paneer tasted canned, the chicken curry and tikka masala were rubbery, and the samosas gluey. The baingan bharta, on the other hand, stood out, with a deep caramelized flavor brought on, I was told, by roasting the eggplant in a tandoor. On a subsequent visit the malai kofta was mushy and oversweet, dal bharta was undercooked, and the beef nehari--an item I was excited to see so far south of Devon--had none of the tender succulence youd associate with such a comforting dish. I was unpleasantly unsurprised.
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