Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight
Classic American fare from the folks behind Dunlays, Frasca, and Crosby's Kitchen.
Remington's, the new Michigan Avenue "American grill" from the 4 Star Restaurant Group (Dunlays, Frasca, Smoke Daddy, etc), marks the Chicago homecoming of immensely talented chef Todd Stein, who spent the last year and a half working in Atlanta. Stein first rose to prominence as executive chef at MK before becoming a forefather of the current Italian wave at the late Cibo Matto, the Florentine, and Piccolo Sogno, producing some of the city's best house-made pasta in the process. You'd suspect that 4 Star's acquisition of such a well-respected chef is an attempt to raise the profile of a group with heavy menu overlap and restaurants that subsist on a general reputation for mediocrity. But in fact, Remington's reproduces at least 15 menu items from at least one (if not more) of the group's seven other restaurants. Even in the few instances where the menu goes into territory that's uncharted for 4 Star, things tend to go wrong. Sushi, pressed onto dessert-sweet mushy coconut rice, is served too cold for one to get even a sense of the seafood's character. But it's not all hopeless. There's a perfectly decent slab of rare, peppery prime rib, as good as any Wisconsin supper club's, and the lightly fried crab cake is one of the more delicate interpretations I've come across. Ultimately Remington's offers joyless takes on safe American classics ripped straight from the ownership's other restaurants. Todd Stein, send up a signal if they're holding you hostage.
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