Hours: Dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11:30
Chef Michael Lachowicz's fine traditional French cuisine.
Forget foams, gels, pellets, and powders. At Restaurant Michael chef Michael Lachowicz and his crew carry on the French culinary tradition he acquired under Jean Banchet and Roland Liccioni at Le Francais, spinning out traditional preparations with the occasional lighter sauce typical of nouvelle cuisine. On my last visit a traditional paté presentation included an orb of velvety chicken liver and a rich, rough country paté with cornichons—no surprises but surpassingly pleasing. Spring pea soup with fresh favas and a crab cake was a sweet double blast of land and sea, and salade Lyonnaise, with a perfectly poached egg and crunchy lardons, reflected time Lachowicz spent cooking in Lyon. Sea bass arrived in small fillets, flash-fried crispy in butter and arranged around a central mound of cheesy potatoes. Terrifically tasty plump quail breasts repaid the effort it took to gnaw small bones, and a warm blueberry-almond financier with a ginger-almond ice cream sandwich still haunts my dreams.
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