Saint Lou's Assembly | West Loop/Fulton Market | American | Restaurant

Saint Lou's Assembly Image

Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days

Price: $$$

Not-so-traditional meat and three from chef Jared Wentworth and the team behind Longman & Eagle, Dusek's, etc.

Restaurant Details

As soon as I walked through the door, Saint Lou's Assembly felt familiar. I'd never been to a meat-and-three cafeteria, a once-beloved, now mostly extinct institution that offers a choice of entree and three sides for one low price. But there was something about the vinyl booths, Formica tables, and wood paneling, not to mention the candy counter and the bowling trophies, that made me feel like I'd seen them before. It looked like the kind of meat-and-potatoes joint my grandfather would've liked, right down to the toothpicks on the tables. Only at Pops's places, the booths were cracked and ripped and there was dust on the bowling trophies and maybe the candy counter too. Saint Lou's is, in fact, intended as a tribute to managing partner Bruce Finkelman's own grandfather, a wholesaler who provided meat to many of the city's restaurants back in the 1940s and '50s and frequented the meat-and-three cafeterias that abounded in the meatpacking district in those days. The restaurant's matchboxes bear his story, in tough-guy prose poetry and minuscule print: "Lou smoked cigarettes, drove a Cadillac, had a foul mouth, loved Elvis, hated people from New York . . . He lived his life the way he pleased, was always fair with others, and to many close to him, Lou was a damn saint." Originally, Saint Lou's Assembly was a cafeteria too, but less than a week before my first visit, Finkelman and chef Jared Wentworth had switched to more conventional table service. This is maybe not surprising. Even a saint like Lou would probably have balked at paying $18 for meat loaf that's been sitting out under a heat lamp. Could you blame him? Read the full review >>

Aimee Levitt

Features: , , , , , , , ,

Price: $$$

Payment Type: Cards accepted

Tags

Add a review

Rating

Select a star to rate.