Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Saturday & Sunday brunch
Alpana Singh's second restaurant, helmed by chef Chris Curren, has a crowd-pleasing menu and an all-American wine list.
For her second restaurant, former Check, Please! host and master sommelier Alpana Singh has tapped Chris Curren, a chef who previously assisted the Fifty/50 Group with Homestead and the Berkshire Room, and before that introduced himself to the city at the late, great Blu 13. In this neighborhood, a stone's throw from the Art Institute, Curren's job isn't to shock and awe, so he's presented a vaguely steak-house-like menu with plenty of familiar options. In terms of basic proteins, there's quite a bit of overlap between this menu and those at dozens of other places around town (it features token items like half chickens, burrata, seared scallops, seared salmon, and pork chops). Nothing to be frightened of here, tourists. Well, maybe the fried chicken skins and pickles will startle some. For the most part the kitchen executes Curren's dishes remarkably well. It's hard for me to glance twice at black cod anymore, but here, served among squishy ricotta gnocchi and meaty maitake mushrooms, the fillets are fall-apart silky, the delicate flakes of fish flesh held together only by a thin, crusted sear. Ultimately, Seven Lions offers a huge wine list and a diverse menu that have the potential to appeal to a broad demographic, just the sort that likes to hang out, however briefly, on Michigan Avenue.
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