Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: every night till 2
Corn dogs, funnel cake, cheese curds, fried Twinkies, and other foods inspired by the fair.
A closet of a storefront with a few scattered stools and two literal holes in the wall (one to the adjoining bar, the dim, bizarrely charming Previous Administration), this to-go spot is meant to mimic the collapsible supertents you find at carnivals and fairs—the same ones that house pool-size vats of scalding oil for deep-frying everything from cheese to Twinkies. And (surprise!) the chunky eight-year-old in me is still a sucker for grease. Born and raised in Cincinnati, I had no choice but to sample the Cincinnati-style veggie chili, which was an impressive imitation, though very much in need of a mound of cheese and some spaghetti—the soupiness of this style of chili just doesn't work well in a bowl by itself. My partner went straight for the carny food, ordering a corn dog, which here are hand-battered and hand-dipped, suitable for the connoisseur. The curds were lackluster, not crispy enough to elicit my usual enthusiastic response to fried cheese, but as any fair- or amusement-park goer will tell you, deep-frying prowess is best evaluated by means of funnel cake. State Fair's is a dense and decadent round you'll want to slice like a pizza to better enjoy. Go ahead and add the fudge drizzle too—you're a grown-up now.
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