Surfing for Life | Chicago Reader

Surfing for Life

David L. Brown's colorful documentary (1999) profiles ten senior surfers and traces the sport's rise from esoteric pastime to pop-culture phenomenon. The six men and four women reminisce about the 1930s and '40s, when they prowled the beaches of southern California and Waikiki looking for the perfect wave and the sport was defined by camaraderie rather than commercialism. And while they rhapsodize about surfing as a therapeutic, mystical experience (an enthusiasm illustrated by footage of spectacular waves), they also gracefully acknowledge the aging of lean, muscular bodies that once defined the California surfer look. 68 min.

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