Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Chengdu-style Sichuan restaurant that's drawing crowds to the southern end of Wentworth.
Unlike its famous neighbor Lao Sze Chuan, Chinatown's newest Sichuanese restaurant specializes not in the cooking of Chongqing but in that of Chengdu, Sichuan's largest city and its gastronomic capital. In Chengdu's cuisine there's plenty of heat, but it's restrained enough that other forms of deliciousness are able to rise from the flames. A Sichuan favorite like fried lamb with cumin, for example, isn't the usual dry-fried plate of gnarly lamb shreds with chiles and whole cumin, but rather silky slices in a sauce that somehow amplifies the cumin in the dish. Chengdu refinement is especially evident in cold appetizers like spicy beef tendon—a pile of snappy, nearly transparent tissue, glazed lightly with red oil—or fu qi fei pian, an organ trio of shaved beef maw, tripe, and tendon, sprinkled with crushed peanuts. And dishes like cold cucumber tossed with minced garlic and wrinkly strips of tofu skin, or a cloudy soup with tender slices of chicken breast and thick tofu noodles are ideal antidotes to the electric buzz of Sichuan peppercorns. Like nearly every other restaurant in Chinatown, Sze Chuan Cuisine offers so many dishes that you could spend weeks trying to get through them all. But its variety and complexity prove that Sichuan food isn't strictly about the blaze of chiles. Read the full review >>
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