Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: every night till midnight
Albany Park taqueria that offers a few Mexican-Korean fusions like kimchi tacos.
This is a rather unpromising-looking taqueria in an Albany Park strip mall. But given its name, I should have guessed there might be more on offer than the typical assortment of tacos, tortas, and burritos--chino, you see, is Spanish slang (some might say slur) for Asians in general, or anyone possessing Asian features. Sure enough, once there, I found a hand-scrawled sign for a "Taco Koreano." I was game, so I ordered one alongside a carne asada and a taco al pastor. No, no, no, said the effusive young Latina at the counter. The Korean tacos are good, she said, but what you really want is the kimchi taco. I didn't take much persuading. My chopped kimchi-pork taco arrived with dispatch, garnished with onion and cilantro and piled on top of a pair of wan store-bought corn tortillas. No matter, they were a sufficient delivery vehicle for the tangy, crunchy punch of this baby, loaded with chewy, tasty, caramelized pig nubbins. Owner Steve Lee, a construction worker by day, has a dream of franchising the place, rolling out one Taco Chino per year. In the meantime, he plans to expand the Mexi-Korean options.
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