Hours: Lunch, Afternoon, Dinner: seven days
Open Late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Longtime Lincoln Park Mexican restaurant with a beautiful (and frequently packed) outdoor patio.
The former Las Fuentes reopened as Tepatulco last year under the peripatetic Geno Bahena; perhaps predictably, Bahena's since taken off, but the menu retains many of his favorites, and the outdoor patio, which seats 200, remains popular. On my last visit camarones aguachiles verdes, a Sinaloan version of shrimp lightly "cooked" in lime marinade, was delicately flavored, and the sopes de chapulines--little masa cups stuffed with black beans, cheese, and grasshopper bits described on the menu as "succulent"--was an accessible dish for one with bug parts. Many patrons seemed to dig the molcajete, a hot lava-rock bowl of steak, chicken, and cactus paddles in a full-bodied sauce topped with chorizo and served with handmade tortillas. Salmon (uncommon in traditional Mexican cuisine) was grilled and deliciously dressed in a green pumpkin-seed-based mole. Simple but satisfying chicken Milanesa was a meaty capon breast with peppery pickled red onion--complemented by the menu's one Mexican red wine as well as margaritas, shaken tableside.
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