Hours: Lunch, dinner: Monday-Saturday
Above-average versions of standard Thai fare.
Apinya "Ann" Leevathana may wear an apron covered with pictures of red chiles, but she isn't pushing aggressively spicy dishes on her unsuspecting neighbors, just above-average interpretations of the usual suspects. Her egg rolls are crunchy and plump with glass noodles and garnished with large, fresh leaves of Thai basil. Chive dumplings, which can so easily deliquesce into soggy blobs, come out of her kitchen crisp and hot. Her hand-cut papaya salad gives a slow burn that shouldn't scare off anyone (ask for it with dried shrimp, which is how Thais usually eat it). Leevathana really shines on the specials board: I had a salmon fillet, dressed in slivered ginger, that was cooked perfectly, moist and medium rare. She can be prodded to ramp up the heat too—the larb chicken and tom yum goong provided the burning ecstatic high I jones for. For dessert she has a few different bubble teas, but maybe the sweetest finish is when she bestows free fruit upon her customers, with a mixture of salt, sugar, and chile powder to dredge it in. If you're really lucky, it'll be plain fresh pears from her own tree.
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa