Hours: Dinner: seven days
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 1, other nights till 11
The team behind Longman & Eagle is behind this two-floor "hearth to table" restaurant, bar, and music venue.
The philosophical and culinary heart of the Promontory, from the Longman & Eagle folks, is a blazing bonfire in the open kitchen, which is used to variously sear strip loin and ahi tuna ("fast"), slow-roast lamb and pork ribs ("embers"), and char the vegetables employed in reimagined classic dishes ("historic"). Certain dishes indicate that chef Jared Wentworth's hearth isn't seeing as much action as it should. On one visit a perfect orb of spaghetti in red sauce concealed a number of irregularly shaped cold veal meatballs, heavy on filler. On another, pork ribs nearly fell off the bone when you looked at them, yielding mushy meat that tasted like it'd been boiled or steamed. A number of the retooled takes on classic dishes are fundamentally ill-advised. Navarin, which is typically a hearty lamb and vegetable stew, arrives on a plate more or less dry. The veal "osso bucco" consists of slices of loin—rather than tougher, fattier shanks—accompanied by a marrow bone and a few arancini studded with a bit of fragrant black truffle. Set on a tart understory of chopped asparagus, it's the one "historic" offering that works. Burgoo, as history has it, is a game stew so thick the spoon should stand up in the pot, but the Promontory's is built on a thin tomatoey broth. There are good things to be found, and generally they're simple dishes. Korean-style grilled short ribs make a nice, gnarly snack. A trio of spreads makes for great snacking. Dessert restylizes classics more successfully. Among the s'more souffle and banana pudding there's a Neapolitan ice cream sandwich that's worth trying. As starved as Hyde Parkers are for good restaurants, I'm sure they'll continue to fill the Promontory. But that doesn't change the unfortunate reality that it falls short of what they deserve. Read the full review >>
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