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The Purloined Menu

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MK is cool and sleek, and--despite a certain degree of overage navel flashing--disarmingly pleasant. Michael Kornick's got a nice-looking resume, what with Marche's terrific menu (if annoying crowd) and Red Light's vibrancy. So it probably won't be long before he gets his latest eat-and-be-seen scene up to snuff. --Leah Eskin

Malpeque oysters The strangest pair I've met on a plate...maybe ever. Fresh oysters glistening in their shells, served alongside little grilled patties of lamb sausage designed to be stacked with oysters, then soaked in an astringent champagne vinaigrette. Once I got over the slippery-charred combo that gave my mouth a headache, I realized the sweet/spicy, bright/mellow contrast was entirely delightful.

Tuna The perfect snack: superfresh tartare lounging with highly sophisticated olive and anchovy friends.

Monkfish/lobster Dense going with the monkfish made this dish seem like too much work, despite a languorous dip in the surrounding lobster pool.

Mussels Smooth broth that somehow managed to retain the distinct flavors of warm cream, sweet mussels, and sultry saffron without sinking beneath a heavy-cream undertow. Lovely.

Butternut squash Way chewy pasta sulking around a little veggie pouch spiked with nutmeg.

We also tried the chocolate tart, which comes looking like a plate of bacon (thin, striped cookies) and eggs (the tart). It was not only charming but delicious, especially the extraordinarily thin, crackly crust.

MK, 868 N. Franklin, is open for lunch weekdays 11:30 to 2 and for dinner Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10, and Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11. For reservations call 312-482-9179.

Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): menue.

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