Hours: Lunch: Friday-Sunday; dinner: seven days
Open late: Thursday-Saturday till midnight, Sunday-Wednesday till 11
Pizza, Juicy Lucys, and craft beers from lady wrestler Lisa Marie Varon, aka Tara.
Pro wrestler Lisa Marie Varon (in the ring, Tara) has parlayed her still popular act into a front-of-the-house gig at this pizza and burger bar, where there's memorabilia, live wrestling action on the flat screens, and the charismatic Varon herself, working the snug room. The menu, dominated by 11 specialty pizzas and eight Juicy Lucys, is characterized by a level of bombast and excess that peaks on a deep-dish pie cooked in pans greased with duck fat, and a burger stuffed with peanut butter and topped with bananas, bacon, and ricotta. One needs to train for something like that, so I started with both the traditional and thin crusts, both decent enough but not earth shattering. They both could use a hotter oven to crisp things up, particularly on overloaded pies like the proprietress's namesake Lisa Marie, with port-caramelized onions, blue cheese, prosciutto, apples, and arugula, or, god help you, the "Kentucky Bourbon," with mashed potatoes, barbecue sauce, and pulled pork. The burgers are a bit more special: wonderfully sloppy, (mostly) Merkts cheddar-stuffed monsters smashed flat on the griddle to produce a crusty exterior that forms stable platforms for mountains of toppings. The only liability is that these can't be cooked medium rare—otherwise the cheese won't melt. But that's forgivable under the circumstances, since the cheesy molten core provides plenty of moisture.
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