Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: 9 to 6 AM daily
Standout Chinese immortalized by the foodie message board LTHForum.
Crunch into shell-on salt-and-pepper shrimp—juicy and fragrant with five-spice mix—or dry stir-fried blue crab, perfumed with ginger and scallion, and you realize that "Little" Three Happiness has a more expert hand with seafood than many far more upscale restaurants. Crisp panfried noodles, rice or wheat, groan under a shrimp-boat's catch of fresh seafood or a combination of barbecued pork and five-spice-accented roast duck. Crispy-skinned chicken is a revelation: moist, tender meat and succulent crisp skin served with lemon wedge, Szechuan pepper-salt mix, and a topknot of cilantro. Stir-fried watercress, pea shoots with garlic, and lettuce with oyster sauce are sure to please, but for a change of pace water spinach with fermented tofu (ong choi with fu yee) is a winner. Raymond and Betty Yau, who've owned "Little" Three Happiness since 1995, gave the place a face-lift a few years back, and it looks nice—though thankfully not so nice as to violate Calvin Trillin's inverse ambience theory of Chinese restaurants. The clams in black bean sauce are as good as ever.
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