Hours: Lunch, Dinner: seven days
This trattoria is a big, bustling space with a beautiful wood-burning oven baking a range of pies with topping options from Gorgonzola to black truffle paste. Our favorite was pizza bresaola, a Roman classic featuring oil-drizzled air-dried beef and dark green arugula. A sweet, tart salad of Granny Smith apples and celery with shreds of Parmesan was an excellent accompaniment--maybe not authentic Italian but damn delicious. Pastas ranged from good to OK: farfalle vegetariane was fresh-tasting al dente veggies with bow-tie pasta and goat cheese, but pappardelle with duck was oddly short on flavor. Petto di pollo alla sarda, chicken breast stuffed with asparagus and scamorza cheese and wrapped in crisp pancetta (just like in Sardinia!) was one fine fowl; a remarkably soft piece of sea bass was perfectly cooked just seconds beyond sushi. We tried several wines by the glass and recommend the Tomaresca, a nice blend of spice and fruit from Puglia that worked well with cheese, meat, and fish. There are also many interesting, moderately priced bottles from all over the boot.
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