Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Saturday & Sunday brunch
Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight, Monday-Thursday till 11
Roman-style trattoria from the people behind Coco Pazzo.
A casual trattoria in the Coco Pazzo family of restaurants, Tre Soldi turns out good, if not thrilling, Roman-style food under the direction of chef Brandon Wolff, late of the Signature Room. His menu opens with a simple and well-executed list of vegetables, for instance fagioli—cool, refreshing, green and yellow beans scattered with pecorino and little bits of pancetta—and a plate of beets piled with sheep's-milk cheese and mixed greens. On one visit there were also expertly battered stuffed squash blossoms, served with a velvety tomato and basil sauce. A tinny amatriciana could have used a little of that freshness; better was the chittarine, squid-ink noodles with clams and broccolini. A half chicken with peperonata—tomato, onion, bell pepper, herbs—suffered a minor grease problem, but it yielded no further complaints. Alas, a pizza topped with kale was likewise a little greasy, though the crust was satisfyingly chewy. This all looks good on paper, doesn't it? So does the cocktail menu, which leans heavily on Italian bitter liqueurs. But the drinks are too sweet, except for the one that isn't: an extremely ill-advised combination that uses citrus to bring out the more unfortunate mouthwash flavors latent—or blatant, I guess, depending on the level of your tolerance—in Branca Menta. Pastry chef Hillary Rikower's version of tiramisu deprives the dessert of its most fabulous quality—that wonderful lightness—in favor of a dense, grainy pile of white chocolate mascarpone. Read the full review >>
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