Hours: Lunch, dinner: seven days
Open late: every night till 11:30
Well-executed Indo-Pakistani standards in chichi digs.
Looking to reinvent Usmania as a place for Pakistani fine dining, the owners shuttered the divey former location and recently reemerged across the street in new digs with exposed brick columns, copper bas-relief, and leather-bound menus. Apparently the chichi environs appeal to the locals—at a recent lunch the huge dining room was packed. The Indo-Pakistani menu features the standard offerings, but the execution far surpasses standard issue. The meats in the creamy butter chicken and mutton biryani were unexpectedly tender and moist; the beef boti, a dish often served at weddings and other celebrations, was like a better, bolder version of gyros; the spicy chana dal was a clear standout. Breads—we tried the naan and an onion kulcha—were the only disappointment. Where were the third-degree char burns one comes to expect?
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